Taiko Sushi Bar

Sushi is always an adventure. Eat the wrong thing and the experience can range from mildly unpleasant to slightly ill to (in rare cases) dead. Therefore, it's easy to fall into the pattern of going to places you know are reputable. That is, the high-class, high-price places downtown or the national chains.

Taiko is neither of those things. Taiko is a small, privately owned sushi bar in of all places Mounds View. Yep, Mounds View, Minnesota. The first time we went there I had just gotten over a case of food poisoning and decided sushi would be a good test to see whether or not I was well. From the outside it looks like the space used to be a Wendy's or some such thing. More than one person has said upon entering the parking lot, "This place has good sushi?" Well, it does. It has good sushi for a price that cannot be matched by anyone else in the state and at a quality that rivals the big dogs in Minneapolis.

On the inside, Taiko is painted a lovely shade of green that one wouldn't want in their home but looks great for a restaurant. The bar, tables and chairs are simple and tasteful. There are a few trinkets hanging on the wall behind the bar, but other than that the space is simply pleasantly minimalist.

The menu has a limited selection of soft drinks, beer and sake, Taiko does also offer $10 corkage. The variety of fish available is not immense, but enough for a good meal. One doesn't expect much from something as simple as gyoza, but for some reason the gyoza at Taiko just tastes better than anywhere else. Sashimi is served in generous cuts and portions. Rolls are perfectly made and balanced, and thick. The star is of course the fish, which is consistently fresh and tastes like it should. All preparations lean toward the traditional, the way it should be. One can choose from sashimi, nigiri, a wide selection of maki, and Scott will make anything you request into a roll. For those who don't want to eat raw, Taiko also has excellent tempura selections.

Part of the charm of going to Taiko is Scott, the owner and chef who always has a smile on his face and a good memory for the regulars. While it's nice to be a regular, everyone is treated the same, I was as happy leaving my first visit as the last, which was my sixth in 4 months.

There are of course things that some might consider downsides due to it being such small place. There is no wine list, which is fine because I'd prefer to bring my own and pay corkage. The sake selection is limited for the sake drinkers (which I am not). The fish selection is not as varied as a larger place, but again, I don't mind because they have everything I like. I would like to see them use a higher grades of soy sauce and wasabi.

That said, again, the prices are ridiculously low, the food is good, and Scott is a wonderful man. I wouldn't want to see any of those things change.

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