Bigi Est! Est!! Est!!! Di Montefiascone Secco

This is a wine that holds a special place in my heart. In the middle of Umbria in the heart of Italy lies a little town called Orvieto. Orvieto has many stories of great and miraculous things that have happened in it. St. Thomas Aquinas preached many of his sermons in its Duomo, A Eucharistic miracle even took place here. Another one of its notable characteristics is its wine. This region and this town are known wide and far for having (arguably) the best white wine in the world. So upon my trip to Italy last year, and a brief day stop in Orvieto, I purchased one of the most famous and longest lived wines of the Umbrian region. Truly, it was a magnificent wine, and since drinking that bottle with some friends in Florence, I have been dying to try some again.

I had that pleasure just a few days ago. A friend had just returned from Italy, and she brought some Est! Est!! Est!!! with her.

Est! Est!! Est!!! has a wonderful story behind it. This particular version is courtesy of The Wine Buyer.

Around 1100 A.D., Bishop Fugger was traveling from Germany to Rome for the coronation of Henry V. The Bishop sent his quartermaster ahead to scout out inns that had good food and wine. He would write “Est!” (Latin for "This is it!") on the walls of the best inns. He was so impressed with Montefiascone that he wrote Est!Est!!Est!!! on the wall of an inn there. Needless to say, the Bishop agreed and never made it to the coronation. He spent the rest of his life in Montefiascone. Local inhabitants, on the anniversary of the Bishop's death, pour a cask of Est! Est!! Est!!! on his grave in celebration of the notoriety he brought to their wine.

The company, Bigi, is based in Orvieto, but their vines for this particular wine are from Montefiascone. Est! Est!! Est!!! Secco is a Malvasia Trebbiano varietal mix with perfect balance. The color is reminiscent of a honeyed wine, something one would expect of a sweet desert wine, but a sugary wine this is not. The nose is a mix of ripe berries and spring flowers, with overarching notes of jam and oak.

The body is something on which to linger. Expressive grapes mixed with medium amounts of oak make for a truly unique experience. The nose does not belie the body, the jam and flowery notes make themselves present toward the back of the tongue. Another interesting feature is that the wine has a slight bubbliness about it, biting slightly but very pleasantly. A carbonated wine this is not, rather the mixture of flavors coming together create this wonderful effect from a still wine. The wine finishes subtly, quickly, and rather than a disappointment at its departure, it leaves one with a desire for more. A desire in my case, that has lasted over a year.

In all, I am in love with this wine, and at 7.99 a bottle, I challenge you to find a better white wine for under $100.

I leave you with an image I took while visiting Orvieto in January 2007.Ah Italia, que bella.

Alta Vista Premium Malbec (2005)

This was another interesting Malbec, although I'm not sure if I'd ever purchase this one for myself. Most Malbecs are better consumed after a good 30 minutes or so of breathing. This one not so much.

The nose, prior to aeration was simple with a bit of cedar. The body was wonderfully lush with dark fruits and just a hint of vanilla-like cedar. The finish was long, mild, with a somewhat cooling sensation.

After aeration the nose yielded the dark fruits with the cedar. The body unfortunately mellowed out to a point of being uninteresting. The finish also became simply unimpressive.

No website.

Finca La Escondida Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (2005)

For those who don't like the traditional big, bold, high cedar Cabernet Sauvignon flavor, this is a good option.

The nose of this one mainly yielded dark fruits, with just a whiff of cedar. The body was light, with plums, blackberries, and currants. The finish was short and mild.

No website.

Domaine Maltoff Bourgognes Coulanges-La-Vineuse (2000)

This was a pleasant Pinot Noir.

The nose was a bit earthy, with whiffs of mushrooms. The body was a bit generic, but pleasantly so with reminders of the nose. Low tannins, and low acid. The finish was long and mild.

No website.

San Martino Prosecco Frizzante (NV)

This was a...... complex wine. As much as I love almost all Prosecco I have, there was something a bit off about this one.

Straight off, the nose was a bit astringent, with a bit off mineral quality to it, and then some very pleasant plum. The body was wonderful, mineral tones again with a bit of anise and vanilla. The finish unfortunately was initially astringent again, followed by a pleasant plum and pear aftertaste.

I just don't think I'd buy this again. It had very nice qualities, but not enough to make up for the unpleasant ones.

Mumm Napa Cuvee M (NV)

This particular wine is a lovely, inexpensive, and please-all bottle.

The nose was floral and a bit fruity. The body had soft, dancing bubbles and was just off-dry. Flavors were mineral, citrus-fruit forward, with a hint of the flowers from the nose. The finish was pleasant, light, and mild.

Being a non-vintage wine, I'm sure this will be a perennial favorite.

website: http://mummnapa.com/winemaking/signaturewines/winesProduct.cfm?product_id=388

Bridgeview Blue Moon Chardonnay (2001)

This is a Chardonnay from Oregon. It sucks. Do not drink it. In fact, I wonder if the ten dollar price tag on something that has been sitting around so long was actually a warning.

If you need more information on how it tastes I will sum it up in simple terms: It tastes like making out with a drunken oak tree. Pour some vodka on a stump and lock lips. It has a nutty finish and a melon nose, but it really just tastes like wood.

SHAME!

Bolla Pinot Grigio (2005)

I have no idea why Pinot Gris is so popular right now. This bottle certainly didn't help answer that question. Good thing it was only USD 7.99 at Lakeridge Liquors in St. Paul, MN.

The nose made me quite optimistic as it had a lovely, strong honeydew note. Everything after that was just disappointing. The body was not particularly high in acid, but it was harsh for whatever reason. The body was also just plain thin and uninteresting. One could detect a bit of honeydew, but it was difficult to tell if it was coming from the body or still from the nose. The finish was not altogether horrible, it was medium with lime and citrus.

My companion thought he could smell and/or taste some free sulfites also. This is bad.

Website: http://www.bolla.com/home.aspx

Columbia Winery Gewurztraminer (2001)

This was a random find at one of the local liquor stores, USD 8.99 at Lakeridge Liquors in St. Paul, MN.

The nose smelled distinctly like lychees and wildflowers. The body once again exuded lychee with sweetness from honey. The sweetness was balanced out by just the slightest bit of acid. There was also a bit of pear and mingled spices in the body. The finish was short and unremarkable.

I probably wouldn't buy this again for the price, but I wasn't disappointed by it either.

Website: http://www.columbiawinery.com/home.asp

Black Mountain Pinot Noir (2006)

This is once again a lovely Pinot Noir and probably once again the best value in this grape.

The nose was generic, but the body was just off-dry and had wonderfully lush dark fruit flavors with soft tannins. The finish was long, mildly sweet, and reminiscent of the body.

This would be a fantastic wine for people who don't normally like reds and with a heavily spiced Asian meal that requires a red. USD 5.99 at Trader Joe's in Maple Grove, MN.

Black Mountain Malbec (2006)

I haven't been able to find the La Boca Malbec in years. If anyone finds it, let me know where it is or send me a case because this Black Mountain stuff was kind of disappointing.

As with most Malbecs, it needed to breath for a bit before it was remotely pleasant to drink. The nose gave off cedar. The body was off-dry and tasted like cedar and a mingling of dark fruits with low, soft tannins. The finish was short, off-dry, and once again had cedar.

Too much cedar for a Malbec. USD 5.99 at Trader Joe's in Maple Grove, MN. The La Boca Malbec was 3.99 and better. Help, please!

Martellozzo Veneto Prosecco (NV)

This wine was a nice surprise. The nose was refreshingly mineral with a whiff of apple. The body was just a bit off-dry but very fruit forward with nice, medium acidity and easy flavors of apple and pear. The finish was a bit short, but that is fine for a wine that would make a nice standalone before a meal or with light appetizers.

The bubbles in this one were very soft and pleasant. USD 6.99 at Trader Joe's in Maple Grove, MN.

Charles Shaw Chardonnay (2006)

If you recall, the 2005 Charles Shaw Chardonnay was an award winner. This vintage will not be.

The nose was just...... not there, except for a bit of oak. Same with the body, which surprisingly was just a hair off-dry. The finish was the worst part, somewhat bitter with a rather unpleasant oak.

All that said, there is quite a bit of bottle variation among Charles Shaw wines, and not every year can be a good year. It was only USD 2.99 at the Trader Joe's in Maple Grove, MN, so it would be a passable cheap cooking wine.

Monasteriolo Cava Brut Rose (NV)

I'm still not quite sure about this one, I might have a few more bottles to try and make a final verdict.

It has a pleasant pink grapefruit color. The nose is mineral, effervescent, and acidic. The body is nicely acidic, dry, and citrus fruit-forward. The finish is largely the same as the body but a bit sweeter.

The one problem with this bottle is that the bubbles were a bit harsh. It was enjoyable though and for the price (USD 6.99 at Trader Joe's in Maple Grove, MN) it is a good option.

Louis Tete Beaujolais-Villages (2005)

Beaujolais is a French AOC label made from Gamay grapes.

This particular wine had a slightly hot and slightly astringent nose with a hint of cedar. The body had zesty acid and some harsh tannins. The body was also tart and slightly astringent. After a bit of aeration the wine toned down overall and brought out some more fruit flavors and a bit of cedar. The finish was forgettable, just like the wine.

I don't recall how much it was, but it was cheap and I won't be buying it again.

Website: http://www.tete-beaujolais.com/

Villadoria Piemonte Brachetto (2005)

To start, I would not recommend chugging this wine from the bottle while spinning. Bubbles and all. I'm sure you understand.

This is my own personal stand-by, being easily procured at the local liquorist for well under $20. This bottle I am currently swigging from only ran an affordable $12.99, but I believe it was on sale. It is a mildly sweet red wine with just hint of bitterness. It is only 6.5% boozle by volume, so it is pretty easy to drink in a large quantity, assuming one is not overcome by its bubbly nature.

This wine comes from the Southern region of Piemonte, which is quite possibly a good thing. Perhaps there is a wine snob somewhere who knows. After they tell me I'll give them quite a pummeling.

I would go deeper into the tasting notes, but it doesn't really matter so much. In fact, the flavor is really easy to summarize- grape juice.

I know this shocks and surprises you that wine will taste like grape juice, but there it is. There are no amazing other flavors in it. That little bitch from the Welch's commercials couldn't tell the difference if it weren't for the bubbles.

Its a great substitute for juice, cola, or cool-aid. I expect it will be all the rage at children's parties next season.

DRINK!

R.L. Buller Victoria Fine Muscat (NV)

I wasn't quite sure what to expect when I bought this bottle. What I got was a very unique fortified wine.

This Australian wine looked and smelled like a good port. The nose was hot as expected with a bit of cherry. The body tasted of sugarplums, nutmeg, and raisins with sweetness from brown sugar. The finish was long, raisiny, and sweet.

I would recommend this to anyone looking for a nice, inexpensive alternative to a vintage port.

Website: http://www.buller.com.au/source/wines.html

Casa La Joya Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (2006)

This particular bottle of Chilean wine was consumed with sushi at Sushi Tango. If you do not wish to read any further, know that I would probably never buy it in a store, but it was fine given Sushi Tango's wine list.

The nose was quite smoky, immediately evoking a comparison to Pouilly-Fumé. Lime was also present, with a whiff of pine, and some generic floral and citrus undertones. The body was disappointingly generic with smoke, mixed citrus, and a bit of apple. The finish was long and tart.

Again, given Sushi Tango's wine list, this was probably the most appropriate choice for the meal, but not a wine I would seek out for sushi. It was too smoky to ordinarily pair with sushi and would have gone much better with a grilled meal.

Krua Thailand, Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Riesling (2005), Hartford Zinfandel (2005), and Fritz Windisch Huxelrebe Beerenauslese (2003)

Krua Thailand has become one of my favorite local restaurants since I was first inspired to go there my an article in Mpls.St.Paul Magazine. Since then, I probably end up there an average of 1-2 times/month. The restaurant holds many memories for me of good food, conversations, and experiences.

At any rate, last night's visit was lovely, as usual. Krua Thailand is located on University Avenue in St. Paul, MN just a few blocks east of Dale. If you don't know what you're looking for, there's a good chance you'd miss the spot. The space itself is small, but smells wonderful and feels cozy. The walls are lined with decorations, antiques, and framed articles and accolades. Despite all of the positive press the restaurant has received, I have never been there at a time when it was any more than 1/2 full.

The food is absolutely divine. I have been told by people who would know that it is the only place in Minnesota to get truly authentic Thai food. These people have also said it is possibly the best Thai food in the US. If one is going there for the first time, the pork sausage is an absolute must as an appetizer. It is handmade by the family and is indescribably good. The Pad Thai is the best anywhere, and if you're a person who normally doesn't like curries, have theirs, you will like it. After that, keep going back and go through the rest of the menu items. I have not had a disappointing dish there yet.

Service at Krua Thailand is generally slow and casual, but for a place like this it really doesn't matter. The restaurant isn't trying to be anything but casual. Go there enough, and the service is very sweet and personable.

Krua Thailand does not have a liquor license but is very accommodating if you wish to bring your own bottles. Corkage is between USD 3-4 (for the entire table, not per bottle!) depending on how many bottles you bring. I personally love bringing in my own wines when I go there for a meal. It is not only more cost effective but it is much easier to cater to a group's tastes. It also makes a casual night out with friends feel even more personal.

Last night was a special night, a friend and I made a date to have a bottle of 2005 Hartford Zinfandel that had been gifted to us by a generous acquaintance we made last time we were at Krua together. Below are the reviews of the wines we had.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Riesling (2005)

Most everyone is familiar with the Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling, it is a standard and was part of my "Value Wines" write-up. The Indian Wells line is simply a better Riesling, however normally a premium is charged. This wine happened to be on sale for US 10.99 at The Cellars Wines and Spirits in Roseville, MN. It normally sells for USD 18.99.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery is of course located in the Columbia Valley of Washington.

The nose is lightly floral with hints of sour apple. The body is tart and slightly astringent with melon at the tip of the tongue, more sour apple, and a long, pleasant, slightly nutty finish.

This is a better wine to pair with foods than the Columbia Valley, however I am not certain that I would be willing to pay full price for it when the Columbia Valley is regularly available for between USD 9-11. That said, it was a fantastic deal for the sale price and was perfect with spring rolls.

Hartford Zinfandel (2005)

This was the centerpiece wine of the meal. It was possibly the best red wine my companion or I had ever had. Hartford Family Winery is located in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County, California.

The nose was quite rich with dark fruit flavors, mainly plum and black currant. The body was also very rich. Flavors were fruit forward, with plum and blackberry. There were lots of tannins, but they were very soft. There was also a bit of chocolate in the body and spicy notes of black pepper, clove, and tobacco. The body was generally rich and full, my companion likened it to the feel one gets eating a flour-less cake. The finish was long and pleasant, with reminders of the body and a hint of coffee.

I don't know how much this wine was since it was a gift and I have no intention of looking up how much it was. I will say this though - it is probably more than I would normally spend on a bottle of wine, but worth it for a special occasion. It paired wonderfully with beef in sweet peanut red curry and a fried tilapia.

Fritz Windisch Huxelrebe Beerenauslese (2003)

Our dessert wine for the evening was a lovely little Beerenauslese. Beerenauslese is a German wine designation meaning the grapes must be individually hand-picked and the must weight must meet a designated minimum. Grapes are generally affected by Noble Rot which leaves us with an intensely sweet and flavorful juice.

The nose was surprisingly generic for the complexity in the body. The body gave flavors of lychee, melon, nectarine, dried pineapple, and sweetness of pure cane sugar. The finish reminded one of golden raisins.

This wine has a very low acid content. If one was just having one glass it would be fine, more than one the wine ends up slightly cloying. For USD 17.99 (500 ml) at The Cellars Wines and Spirits in Roseville, MN this is a wine to be sharing among a few friends rather than splitting between 2 people. It is also a great price for a Beerenauslese as they often command very high prices.


Websites:

http://www.ste-michelle.com/indian_wells_riesling.cfm

http://www.hartfordwines.com/wines/zinfandel/

Value Wines

Enjoying wine should not be an expensive endeavor. However, finding decent wine for less than USD 10 is a bit difficult. Finding good wine for that price is even harder. There are plenty of choices if you're willing to spend a little bit of money and enough time tasting.

Always remember that wine pricing is capricious and that wine has a tendency to be a Veblen good.

I'm listing some of my value favorites. All of the wines below are very easy-drinking wines, good for both hobbyists and people who normally don't drink wine. Most of them are easy to pair with food and will also be fine on their own. They are listed in no particular order.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling (2005):

This Riesling is an excellent value and a perennial standard. One will find this offered in many restaurants and it is available at almost any liquor store. The Cellars Wines & Spirits in Roseville, MN currently has it on sale for USD 8.99. It is a very easy white with a bit of sweetness and nice neutral fruit notes. One will easily pick up a bit of apple, pear, peach, and cinnamon in the nose and body. The finish is crisp due to a bit of acidity.

Columbia Crest Two Vines Gewurztraminer (2006)

A good Gewurztraminer is a wonderful thing. A bad Gewurz is one of the most awful things in the world of wine. One should be very cautious with lower-priced Gewurztraminer. This one is USD 6.99 at Lakeridge Liquors in St. Paul, MN and is lovely. The nose has a slight sweet floral character and the body has nice flavors of lychee, mixed fresh fruits, and cloves. The finish is very fruity and refreshing.

Trader Joe's Wines

The following wines are available exclusively at Trader Joe's. They are very well priced because they are sold exclusively at Trader Joe's. All of the prices are from the Maple Grove, MN location.

Lacheteau Vouvray (2006)

The absolute hands-down value king of Chenin Blanc. Available for USD 6.99. This vintage seems to taste just below a demi-sec in residual sugar. There is enough acid to balance out the sugar and make it flexible to pair with various foods. The best pairings would be with spicy foods. The nose is not very complex, mainly apple and honey. The body gives one apple, lime, honey, and a bit of pineapple. The finish is a bit sweet but not cloying.

Black Mountain Pinot Noir (2005)

Due to the "Sideways effect" Pinot Noirs are now typically quite expensive and dare I say overpriced. This one is sold for USD 4.99 and is wonderful. There are definitely better Pinots available, but not for this price. The nose is quite generic, but the body has nice rich dark fruit flavors attached to it with very soft tannins. The finish is short and easy.

Schloss Biebrich Sekt (NV)

"NV" means non-vintage. This particular sparkler is quite nice. Available for USD 5.99, it is great before a meal. It is quite bubbly compared to other sparkling wines, but for whatever reason it still drinks quite easily. The nose is fresh, slightly floral and mineral. The body is just off-dry and will give a primary initial hint of apple-pear followed by the flowers and minerals again.

Charles Shaw Wines (from Trader Joe's)

Yes, "Two-Buck-Chuck". In Minnesota, it is "Three-Buck-Chuck". It makes no difference, there are some excellent wines to be had from Charles Shaw. Notice that I did not say excellent values, excellent wines - period. Don't knock this stuff until you have tried it. It is important to note that due to the high volume of Charles Shaw Wine, there may be quite a bit of bottle variation. All are priced at USD 2.99 in Minnesota.

Charles Shaw Chardonnay (2005)

This is the one you've read about. Double Gold Medal and Best Chardonnay from California at the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. Whether or not it was worthy of this award I do not know. What I do know is that I don't ordinarily like Chardonnays and I liked this one. The nose was very neutral, but the body was buttery, crisp, refreshingly citrusy, and has just enough oak to remind one it was a Chardonnay but not too much where it overpowered the flavor.

Charles Shaw Sauvignon Blanc (2006)

This is a nice easy choice if you want a Sauvignon Blanc but do not feel like paying the usual prices for other California or French Sauvignon Blancs. The nose is lightly floral and citrusy. The body is generically citrusy and dry with a hint of pineapple flavor. It finishes quickly, but pleasantly. There is a slight bit of grass in the body, but not enough to ruin it, especially for the price.

Charles Shaw Shiraz (2005)

This is a fine value red. Not very complex at all, but has a bit of dark fruit and some pepper and spice. It is quite simply a very easy drinking red that could go with just about anything you'd want to have a red wine with. I personally like this one with beef jerky. Don't bother asking for an explanation, it's just a nice way to finish an evening.

Websites:

http://www.ste-michelle.com/Sub_ColumbiaValleyVineyards.cfm

http://www.columbia-crest.com/wines_two.cfm

http://www.traderjoes.com/