Monday, March 10, 2008

Bigi Est! Est!! Est!!! Di Montefiascone Secco

This is a wine that holds a special place in my heart. In the middle of Umbria in the heart of Italy lies a little town called Orvieto. Orvieto has many stories of great and miraculous things that have happened in it. St. Thomas Aquinas preached many of his sermons in its Duomo, A Eucharistic miracle even took place here. Another one of its notable characteristics is its wine. This region and this town are known wide and far for having (arguably) the best white wine in the world. So upon my trip to Italy last year, and a brief day stop in Orvieto, I purchased one of the most famous and longest lived wines of the Umbrian region. Truly, it was a magnificent wine, and since drinking that bottle with some friends in Florence, I have been dying to try some again.

I had that pleasure just a few days ago. A friend had just returned from Italy, and she brought some Est! Est!! Est!!! with her.

Est! Est!! Est!!! has a wonderful story behind it. This particular version is courtesy of The Wine Buyer.

Around 1100 A.D., Bishop Fugger was traveling from Germany to Rome for the coronation of Henry V. The Bishop sent his quartermaster ahead to scout out inns that had good food and wine. He would write “Est!” (Latin for "This is it!") on the walls of the best inns. He was so impressed with Montefiascone that he wrote Est!Est!!Est!!! on the wall of an inn there. Needless to say, the Bishop agreed and never made it to the coronation. He spent the rest of his life in Montefiascone. Local inhabitants, on the anniversary of the Bishop's death, pour a cask of Est! Est!! Est!!! on his grave in celebration of the notoriety he brought to their wine.

The company, Bigi, is based in Orvieto, but their vines for this particular wine are from Montefiascone. Est! Est!! Est!!! Secco is a Malvasia Trebbiano varietal mix with perfect balance. The color is reminiscent of a honeyed wine, something one would expect of a sweet desert wine, but a sugary wine this is not. The nose is a mix of ripe berries and spring flowers, with overarching notes of jam and oak.

The body is something on which to linger. Expressive grapes mixed with medium amounts of oak make for a truly unique experience. The nose does not belie the body, the jam and flowery notes make themselves present toward the back of the tongue. Another interesting feature is that the wine has a slight bubbliness about it, biting slightly but very pleasantly. A carbonated wine this is not, rather the mixture of flavors coming together create this wonderful effect from a still wine. The wine finishes subtly, quickly, and rather than a disappointment at its departure, it leaves one with a desire for more. A desire in my case, that has lasted over a year.

In all, I am in love with this wine, and at 7.99 a bottle, I challenge you to find a better white wine for under $100.

I leave you with an image I took while visiting Orvieto in January 2007.Ah Italia, que bella.

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